National Tree Week 2025

Making Us Reflect on How We Understand Ourselves

Warrenscourt Demesne – March 8^th (10am -1pm)

Author, at the invitation of Kilmurray Historical Archaelogical Association, facilitated a guided Tree Week 2019 Field Tour of Warrenscourt State Forest (formerly Demesne land, acquired in 1955 from the Duggan family). 2025 marks the 100^th Anniversary since the family purchased from the Warrens. A follow up walk in the State Forest followed to mark Heritage Week 2019.

The history of the acquisition by Cromwellian Officer, Robert Warren, of lands in the adjoining Barony of West Carberyin 1652 has been summarised and is available via https://heritage.heritagecork.org/new-contributions/nature-articles-by-ted-cook (A Cromwellian Estate August 2019). Author met Dr. and Mrs. Duggan along the latter 2019 outing and the proposition of a Woodland Tour within their property was considered. Covid intervened.

Using a mid-Ulster expression “it rained like the day they hanged Montgomery”, nonetheless our 30 bookings gathered at Coillte Northern Car Park at 10am (5 apologies were texted in).

Crossing Warrenscourt Bridge over the Bunea River (Buinne Aodha – Aodh’s Rapid stream) which rises in Knockane Townland (Terelton), we are welcomed and leave behind our “laments for s world gone wrong”.

Leaving the avenue we observe a “Secondary Woodland” of wildsown Sycamore, its dense under canopy of Laurel recently shorn. Our hosts confirmed that this paddock was not a plantation. Tell tale Veteran Trees of Oak, Ash and Horse Chectnut would suggest this was Parkland/ Wood Pasture during the Warren epoch.

“Wood Pasture” since Ireland’s High Mediaeval Period, provided both “Out-Wintering” and “Summer Shade” for the Demesne grazers. Recent additions include Beech, Scots Pine, Holm Oak, Common Oak (English Oak) and Hungarian Oak.

John Clare the Poet of the early 1700’s beckons three centuries later to “listen to the merry bees, that feed with eager wing, on the broad leaves, glazed over with honey-dew”, the “Splendid Sycamore”. Albeit an “Invasive”, Sycamores importance for pollinators as an “aphid megalopolis”, masses of Swallows and House Martins, Blue Tits, Garden Warblers, Chiff-Chaffs and Robins are nourished. Few others of the Plant Kingdon both survive and flourish in our exhaust fume heavy inner cities (a property shared by Sycamore look alike – the Plane Family).

In his 1794 publication “Treatise on Trees”, Samuel Hayes (who designed and planted Avonmore Demesne, Co. Wicklow, bequeathing it to the Parnells) records the massive Sycamore in the scores of Cromwellian and earlier Elizabethan Demesnes across Ireland. A scatter of superb specimen Sycamores adorn Macroom Demesne, laid out in 1345.

Our route next folllows the “Lawn’s Edge”, walled Demesnes followed a prototype, Mansions looked out upon rolling “Lawns”, dotted with Parkland Trees (normally Limetrees), “ha-ha”s protecting the dwelling’s curtilage from livestock that grazed the “Lawn”.

Following the rank of Lombardy Poplar (a race of Black Poplar), we approach the larger waterbody “Big Lake”, and (despite the pelting downpour) we come upon a full grown Cryptomeria Japonica (Japanese Red Cedar), a relict of the “Evergreen Mania” of the early 1800’s that swept the Irish Estates. This specimen is likely a “Champion Tree” for both her girth and vigour.

Passing a small woodland of Birches and Alders we spot a “Witches Broom” Birch Fungus (Taphrina b.) resembling nests in the Birch canopy, this is not a pest or disease regardless of literature.  

Along the causeway dividing “Big Lake” and “Middle Lake” new plantings include a Maple (“fremanii”); Weeping Willow (“babylonica”), turning for “Small Lake” are newly planted Swamp Cypress (“Taxodium – lit. “resembling Yew”); several Common Oak and Scots Pine; Wild Cherry and Guelder Rose; Whitethorn; Mountain Ash; Red Oak; 2 x Tulip Trees (Lirodendron Family ranges among Earth’s earliest decidious Flowering Trees).

Louis (recently appointed NPWS Conservation Ranger) noted Otter “spraints”, Otters are at home here, although a “Working Demesne” supporting a Dairy herd, generous expanses are left to their own evolution, including large “Willow Carrs” (Swamp). A 1950 photograph capturing the Deer Park and enclosing walls together with “Middle Park” (that portion now comprising State Forest) includes a handwritten observation “Wetlands undisturbed probably for 250 years”. Copious frogspawn attest to balanced aquatic and atmospheric health.

An Oak limbdrop festooned with Decomposer Fungi (Saprotrophic) prompted the fable of the Professor who was determined to outwit “Time”. Saprotrophs won’t be bettered, all organic life must return to the “Elemental”.

Disease free Elms (likely Wytch Elm, native) grow nearby, as do giant Limetrees (and what author took to be Aspen). Mute Swans on the “Upper Lake” prompted Wendell Berry’s “Peace of Wild Things”. Recent clearance revealed a solitary Common Yew. At the Battle of Agincourt (Norman), the French, when capturing Henry V’s longbowmen (Yeoman, Yewman) cut off their two fingers required to draw the bow. Fresh waves of Yeomanry “showed the fingers”. The infuriated French defence collapsed. Presumably, the Warrens planted Yew, a significant symbol in the minds of an English garrison.

Browsing Deer (Sika) are the bane of newly planted Trees, stockproofing individual Specimens demands inordinate time and energy. And its’ a matter of time before the Grey Squirrel migrate south from the Blackwater basin, endangering Warrenscourt’s Red Squirrel population.

An early Specimen of Copper beech (likely early 1800’s) of superb “Crown Dicipline” adorns the North bank of Upper Lake. Conor and Catherine point out Japanese Katsura and Persian Ironwood (Parrotia persica). Returning via the Lombardy Avenue, Rodney (Tracton Biodiversity Group) confirms a giant Giant Redwood (Sequoiadendron) adjacent a recently planted Coastal Redwood (Sempervirens).

We continue along “Sheares Walk” and fall to talk about Cork’s leading intellectuals, who’s adherence to “Liberty, Equality & Fraternity” in 1798 landed both brothers on the gallows. Why “Sheares Walk” in an Ultra Orange Demesne must remain forever imperfectly understood. S. Hayes “Treatise”  of 1794 has been republished in 2003 and is available in our Public Libraries, it is a unique record of the Ascendency Demesnes, their choices of Speciment Trees through the Elizabethan, Cromwellian and Williamite Settlements in Ireland, their Woodland Management practices e.g. Coppicing was undertaken in early June in full sap flow (never in dormancy), their respective utility, the principles underpinning “Coppice with Standards” e.g. ten Oaks per acre with 50 working “stools” cut on a 17 year rotation, and records of Tree girths in Co’s Dublin, Wexford, Wicklow, Kerry and Offaly.

We pause beneath the Champion Giant Redwood. We record our gratitude to the Duggans (and Farm Manager, Tom Murphy & Bernadette Connolly, Coordinator of The Environmental Forum) on behalf of an enthusiastic troop of “Life-long-learners”

Gearagh U.N. Bio-Genetic Reserve, March 9^th

“Self-repair within Woodland Eco-systems”

2025 marks the 40^th Anniversary of the founding of Macroom district Environmental Group (MDEG). Tree Week 2025 afforded us botht he appropriate time and venue to celebrate, recalling that MDEG played a not insignificant role in securing the Graragh’s Nature Reserve designation in September 1987 “ensuring the conservation of the Alluvial Forest Ecosystem which it constitutes” (Ministerial Order 231/87).

Author acknowledges Diarmuid crowley, Geographer, for unique insights as co-host.

It is doubtful whether two such contrasting landscapes, Warrenscourt and Gearagh, endure, not alone in Muskerry Barony but on our 20 million acre island. The former, a meticulously designed Estate, the latter an “Ancient Residual Post-Glacial Alluvial Forest”.

Deriving from “Gaorthadh” (Dineen’s Foclóir:- a stream watered wooded glen) with it’s “mouth” at Ballingeary c.15 miles upriver, the Order (231/87) lists the Townlands of “Dromkeen; Teergay; Tullatreada; Raleigh South; Dundareirke; Annahala Bog; Anahala East; and West” as comprising in part or in whole, the legally protected Reserve.

The “Wet Wonderland”, irrespective of decades of tensions between the site owner (ESB) and our Wildlife Service (NPWS), concerning the absence of the mandatory “Management Plan” (1979 Wildbirds/ 1992 Habitats Directives) harbours ever deepening “Mystery”, as we witness the sure and gradual recolonisation of the “Forest” (clearfelled 1956/’57). Fellow MDEG member, Laura McCarthy, (Ecology Graduate U.C.C.) who accompanied us, contrinutes her observations.

Laura pointed out the high diversity of lichens growing along the public causeway. A small branch found on the track was a good example of this. Encrusted with lichens the most obvious were Usnea spp., known as bearded lichens, typicallyindicating high air quality as these lichens are sensitive to pollution. It was later discussed how epiphytes and lichens are particularly rich in the woods of southwest Ireland and Cork because of our hyper–oceanic climate, and influence of the Gulf stream. Mild winters and summers, high humidity and cloud cover provide ideal conditions for temperate rainforest. Growing up near the Gearagh, Laura admitted that she always took this for granted and in comparison was surprised to see how dry and less “lush” other woods are in Ireland. It wasn’t until she worked abroad that she realised the uniqueness of Irish woodlands.

The most northerly bridge along the causeway provides the best panorama of the reservoir formed by the Lee Hydroelectricity scheme of the 1950s and of the surviving islands that remain above water, which were clear-felled prior to the valley being flooded. Many visitors to the Gearagh are likely to have photographs from this view point, showing barren and muddy islands to the west of the bridge. Laura observed that even since the time she carried out her final year research project on the Gearagh in 2017, many of these islands have become far more vegetated and willows have advanced forward from upstream islands, indicating a change to the flooding regime. It was suggested that this may be related to the ESB’s obligation to keep average water levels lower throughout the year, since the time Cork city was flooded by heavy rains in 2009.

But now willow has colonised them and extensive areas of reed beds (namely bulrush) have formed new habitat.  It was mentioned that the recent sighting of penduline tits in these reed beds was perhaps not random, given that they were visiting their specific preferred habitat; a hopeful indication that if we make space for nature it has a determined resilience and the ability to surprise us. Laura shared that on islands further upstream young saplings of oak are appearing amongst the willows. A succession is happening. It indicates that the Gearagh could potentially recover its climax species (oak, ash, hazel) if water levels are dropped more consistently, an exciting prospect, if we could only loosen our controlling grip on the Lee.

In contrast to Warrenscourt Demesne, here the Sycamore is an aggressive I.A.S. (Invasive Alien Species) alongside the expanding abundance of Himalayan Balsam, Red Osier Dogwood (C. servicea) and Montbretia are already present in river channels. We note the male catkin flowers on our wind, pollinated Hazels and Willows, in the former we spot the tiny crimson Female Flowers.

Ted Cook drawing attention to Hazel male flowers

Pollen rich Willow male flowers

Both Hazel and Willow Pollen are major sources of nourishment for our starving Bumblebees, that like our Honeybees feed exclusively on Pollen and Nectar. We spot a “White-tailed Bumblebee” foraging Gorse blossoms. Gorse is the “go to” blossom in early March for Honey bees.

Ash is a co-dominant species with Oak on the wooded islands, rather was. Dieback is ubiquitous across the entire canopy, opening fresh opportunity for Sycamore.

“Hazel is the most seriously threatened Temperate Forest Tree, except Elm” wrote Prof. Rackham (1986). Apart from taking eggs and young fledglings, Grey Squirrels strip Hazel of their unripe nuts in early September, those they bury rot. Rackham’s answer – the “airgun”. Hazelwoods form the Gearagh Oakwood under-canopy. Odd, after 40 years the author is yet to spot a Red Squirrel in this Nature Reserve.

This photograph shows where we observed fast encroaching “Willow Carr” colonising wetlands to the South of the braided channels.

We gather for a group picture two hours into our walk, and proceeding to “Butterfly Island”. Diarmuid introduces participants to his “Icon” a 40 year old Common Oak, planted 1989 (Scéal Eile) and contributes the following;

We can think about geomorphology as the body language of the earth – as an expression of the deep flow of geological time through which all the earth’s elements have been in their dance. Satish Kumar considers deep time as a time of imagination. He feels we are all made out of earth, air, fire, water, space, time and consciousness. When we think of consciousness as just one of the elements, I feel it opens a door for us….

‘The younger brothers and sisters of creation’ is what Robin Wall Kimmerer calls us.

Yes, the restoration of places such as the Gearagh would be a fine thing, but only if it follows what Kimmerer calls ‘re-story-ation’ – a deep listening to the stories of the land. This is how our relationship with the land begins to be healed.

Ted Cook

(transcribed by Bernadette Connolly, TEF)